HAWAIIAN 

HISTORICAL  SOCIETY 

REPRINTS 

(No.  4) 

Extract  form 

The  Diary  of  Ebenezer  Townsend,  Jr. 

Supercargo  of  the  Sealing  Ship  "Neptune"  on  her 
voyage  to  the  South  Pacific  and  Canton. 


As  published  in 

"Papers  of  the  New  Haven  Historical  Society^ 

Volume  VI,  New  Haven; 

1888. 


Arranged  and  Indexed  for  the  Hawaiian  Historical  Society 
by  Bruce  Cartwright,  Ph.B. 

(The  edition  of  this  Reprint  is  limited  to  500  copies.) 


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PREFACE 

The  voyage  of  the  "XEPTUXE"   aroimd  the  World 
in    1796-99. 


The  Uiary  which  follows  this  introductory  notice  I 
had  the  pleasure  of  reading  before  the  (Xew  Haven) 
Historical   Society   in    188.'>. 

Mr.  Ebenezer  Townsend,  the  principal  owner  of 
the  "XEPTUXE"  and  the  projector  of  the  voyage,  was 
at  the  time  one  of  the  most — possibly  the  most — exten- 
sive ship  owner  in  Xew  Haven.  His  vessels  sailed  to 
many  of  the  great  shipping  ports  of  the  world,  and  a 
large  fortune  had  resulted  from  his  eomuu'rcial  adven- 
tures. 

For  some  years  prior  to  the  sailing  of  the  "Xep- 
tune,"  sealing  voyages  had  been  })erf(>niu'd  by  ships 
from  Salem  and  Providence  which  had  been  very 
lucrative,  and  the  Xew  Haven  ship  owners  were  eager 
to  "try  the  venture." 

Mr.  Townsend  fitted  out  the  "Xe])tune"  for  a  seal- 
ing voyage  under  the  command  of  Daniel  Greene,  a  vet- 
eran shipmaster,  strict  disciplinarian  and  an  honest 
man.  The  Shi})'s  Company  consisted  of  45  young  and 
sturdy  Connecticut  men. 

She  carried  an  armament  of  20  twcive-jxHind  guns 
and  was  called  a  fast  sailing  ship.  The  "X^eptune" 
was  350  tons  burden,  and  was  built  in  this  city  CXo.w 
Haven)  at  the  Olive  Street  Ship  Yanl. 

Ebenezer  Townsend,  Jr.,  was  the  suj^ercargo,  and 
in  those  days  it  was  no  sinecure  to  be  sujiercargo  of  a 
sealing  ship.  All  the  details  of  the  ship's  business,  the 
weighing  of  food,  the  account  of  the  skins  captured, 
selling  the  same  in  China,  paying  the  ship's  bills,  buy- 
ing and  receiving  the  homeward  cargo,  all  nf  tbcsr  nnd 
otliei-  (Intics  fell  tn  (he  lot  of  tlie  (.Id-tinic  sii|)cr('arg(» — 


an  otHee  which  is  now  obsolete:  ocean  cabk's  and  steam- 
ships have  destroyed  it. 

From  this  port  (New  Haven)  the  "Xeptune"  saik'd 
for  the  Seal  Islands  in  the  South  Pacific  (Massafiiero, 
]\Iassatierra,  etc.),  and  after  killing  and  salting  down 
80,000  seals  proceeded  to  Canton,  where  the  skins  were 
sold  at  a  price  which  gave  the  ship  a  gross  freight  of 
$280,000. 

A  cargo  of  tea,  silks,  nankeens,  and  China  ware  was 
loaded,  and  the  ^'Xeptune"  came  home  to  Ifew  Haven 
after  an  absence  of  about  three  years. 

The  pecuniary  results  of  the  vovage  have  nevei* 
been  equalled  bv  a  I^ew  Haven  ship,  and  it  is  probable 
that  no  American  vessel  ever  made  so  much  in  the  f^ame 
period  of  time,  when  we  take  into  consideration  that 
the  "Xeptune"  took  no  cargo  from  this  port  (Xew 
Haven). 

The  share  of  the  profits  which  were  awarded  to  ^Ir, 
Townsend,  Sr.,  amounted  to  $100,000 — our  Diarist  re- 
ceived $50,000  and  $70,000  was  divided  between  Cap- 
tain Greene  and  others  who  were  interested  in  the 
voyage.  The  United  States  Government  levied  upon 
the  cargo  a  duty  amounting  to  $74,000. 

During  the  War  of  1812  the  American  ship  own- 
ers met  with  many  losses,  some  losing  their  entire 
property.  The  Supercargo  was  among  the  number. 
Soon  after  the  War  he  went  to  N^ew  York  -where  for 
many  years  he  was  the  proprietor  of  the  Tontine  Coffee 
House,  a  place  where  ship  owners  and  masters  of  ves- 
sels met,  settled  freights,  planned  voyages  and  arranged 
charters. 

Later  on,  ^Mr.  Townsend  moved  to  the  extreme 
West  (for  those  days),  where  he  died  not  many  years 
ago. 

Portraits  of  Mr.  Townsend  the  elder,  and  of  Cap- 
tain Greene,  are  in  the  possession  of  the  Society  (!N^ew 
Haven  Historical  Society)  and  hang  in  the  Portrait 
Gallery. 

THOMAS  R.  TROWBRIDGE,  JR. 


EXTRACT   FROM   THE 

Diary  of  Ebenezer  Townsend,  Jr. 

Ill  Hawaii  from  August  12,  1708,  to  August  :>1,  179S. 


I'L'  X  A JI  II.O II  AM  A  K  r  A. 


At  G  o'clock,  evening  of  the  12tli  of  August,  17!>8, 
we  made  the  long  wished  for  island  of  Owvhec  (Ha-  '^""-  -^^^ 
waii),  the  east  end  of  which  bore  SSW,  distance  12 
leagues.  Very  high  laud.  Stood  in  under  snug  sail 
through  the  night  and  in  the  iiiorning  were  about  five 
leagiies  distant.  We  then  attended  to  our  armament, 
loaded  our  carriage  giiiis  and  took  such  precautions  as 
were  necessary  to  guard  against  the  treachery  of  In- 
dians. TJan  close  in  with  the  island,  when  a  canoe 
came  olf  with  a  couple  of  Indians,  a  few  potatoes  and 
a  couple  of  pumpkins.  We  were  not  pleased,  after 
rouiuling  the  shi])  to  get  them  on  board,  that  their 
cargo  Avas  so  tritliug.  However,  we  thought  we  should 
soon  have  enough  ott'.  We  rei*eived  them  on  board  and 
dropped  their  canoe  astern  of  the  ship  and  squared 
away  and  soon  towed  so  hard  on  the  canoe  that  she 
filled  and  ])arted  her  tow  roi)e.  'V\\v  Indians  sprang 
immediately  overboard  and  were  very  <piick  alongside 
their  canoe  and  quicker  in  getting  the  water  out  of  her 
and  getting  into  her  themselves.  It  was  a  singh'  eauoe; 
nothing  singular  in  the  canoe  itself,  being  dug  out 
from  a  l^g;  Imt  it  had  an  outrigger,  a  light  piece  of 
wood  same  U'ligth  as  the  canoe,  of  three  inches  diam- 
eter to  skim  the  surface  at  about  three  feet  ami  a  half" 
distance  fivtin  the  canoe  and  f  istened  to  ii  by  tniir  or 
ti\c  |)ieces  of  wood  in  the  sbii|)e  of  m  -ickic  wilh  ibe 
handle  fastened  aei'oss  the  canoi'  and  the  |Miinl  in  ibc 
ontrigger;  this  ojx-rated  as  a  Uwv  witbuni  <li>tni'bing 
but  a  trifle  the  ])assage  of  the  Itoat  ibnMigb  the  walcr. 
Tbi-    ontriiiii<-i-    thev    inniiedialclx     look     bold    <i|.    :ind 


forcing  ir  iiiulcr  waler  and  l>ai-k  again,  with  an  i-\i)t'rt- 
ness  which  you  canuot  conceive  of,  they  completely 
turned  the  water  out  of  her.  We  rounded  to  again  and 
rcci-ived  them  on  board,  guarding  against  a  lilce  aeci- 
(Icnr.  IJy  what  we  could  learn  from  them,  after  rnn- 
ning  somo  time  and  no  canoes  coming  oif,  we  concluded 
liiere  mnst  be  a  taboo,  and  yet  we  could  not  comprehend 
a  talioo  that  wonhl  not  allow  them  to  come  on  board 
of  us.  We  ran  along  between  forty  and  fifty  miles, 
close  in.  The  land  appeared  in  the  highest  state  of 
(•iilii\  atioii  and  some  cleared  spots  were  seen  towards 
I  lie  snnnnit  of  the  mountain,  which  sho\v_ed  itself 
ali'>\('  the  clouds  which  rolled  along  below.  The  ascent 
apiicai'cd  just  gradual  enough  from  the  shore  to  be 
licantirul  and  show  itself  fairly  to  the  eye.  We  passed  a 
niinihcr  of  villages  which  appeared  much  like  the  negro 
I  louses  in  the  West  Indies. 
^iug.  13th  The  night   of  the   13th   we   were   obliged   to   stand 

^^^^  off  and   on   again  without   any  communication  further 

with  the  shore.  We  were  very  uneasy,  having  several 
of  our  crew  very  bad  with  the  scurvy,  and  the  two  nu-n 
appearing  afraid  to  go  on  shore  and  so  glad  to  have 
got  on  bi»ard  we  feared  that  something  very  serious 
might  be  on  shore.  We  conld  find  out  but  little  from 
them  by  signs. 

KAWATIIAli     BAY. 

Aug.  14th  <^n  the  moi'iiing  of  the  14th,  having  experienced  a 

^79^  strong  lee  current  through  the  night,  we  again  stood 
in  and  still  no  canoes  came  off.  As  I  have  been  some 
among  Indians  and  do  not  believe  them  so  hostile  in 
dis]>osition  as  to  wish  to  injure,  unless  some  benefit  was 
to  be  deri\('d  or  revenge  gratified,  and  that  I  had  noth- 
ing to  fear  unless  there  had  been  some  recent  outrage 
\)y  while  ])co])le,  I  therefore  proposed  to  Capt.  Greene 
to  let  the  yawl  go  on  shore  armed,  and  that  T  would 
go  in  her  and  would  go  on  shore,  letting  the  lx»at  keeji 
oft'  a  little,  out  of  the  power  of  the  natives,  until  I 
could    discovei-    whether    thev    were    friendlv    or    not. 


Haviua'  sto(jJ  wirli  rlie  ship  within  about  foui-  leagues 
of  the  lauding,  but  what  we  thought  nearer,  we  started 
in  the  vawl,  being  five  of  us  and  one  of  the  Indians  for 
pilot,  and  pulled  in  in  about  three  hours.  The  beach 
Avas  filled  with  Indians.  AVe  rowed  pretty  near  the 
shore  when,  I  jumped  overboard  rather  above  my  knees 
in  water  and  the  boat  pulled  oft'  a  few  rods  from  the 
shore.  I  was  received  with  the  strongest  marks  of 
friendship  in  their  countenances  and  gestures.  Tidi 
]\Iiti  (Keliimaikai  (k)  ),  who  is  the  king's  (Kamchaui- 
eha  (k)  l)rother  and  the  head  chief  in  that  district 
(Kohala)  where  we  were,  came  down  and  taking  me  by 
the  hand,  walked  from  the  shore  with  me  surroimded 
by  Indians.  I  very  soon  noticed  a  change  in  his  coun- 
tenance and  his  eyes  turned  frequently  towards  my  pis- 
tols, which  were  in  a  belt  around  my  waist.  They  were 
a  very  snug  ])air  and  being  no  way  cumbersome  1  hail 
landed  with  them  on,  when  I  ought  and  intended  lo 
have  left  them  in  the  boat ;  but  it  cannot  sur])rise  you 
that  it  did  not  occur  to  me  when  my  mind  was  so 
taken  up  with  this  new  visit  that  I  was  about  making. 
His  countenance  show^ed  that  he  was  not  pleased  at  uiy 
landing  armed,  which  as  s(mhi  as  I  noticed,  I  ])re- 
sented  him  Avith  my  ])isto]s;  he  would  receive  but  one, 
giving  me  back  the  other.  This  much  more  than  re- 
instated nie,  for  as  soon  as  he  ojx-ued  the  ])an  aud 
saw  them  loaded  he  clasped  my  hand  and  by  his  ges- 
tures showed  that  he  was  extrenu'ly  ])leased  that  I 
had  confidence  in  hiui.  1  saw  immediately  there  was 
nothing  to  fear.  They  soon,  by  signs,  let  me  know 
that  there  was  a  white  man  (Shacklesby)  auioug  tlieni 
whom  they  had  sent  foi-.  IFe  came  down  in  nlxmi  ;iii 
hour,  which  time  I  s))ent  very  couifortably  in  the 
chief's  house.  The  white  man,  whose  uaiiie  was  Sliack- 
lesby,  said  that  John  ^^lUllg■,  who  lives  in  this  Jmy 
(Kawaihae),  an  Englishman,  set  niV  tor  the  shij)  tliis 
morning  and  an  Irishman  (Martin)  witli  him;  that 
there  was  one  of  the  annual  taboos  on,  w  hidi  was  :i  pro- 
liiliition   from  goinu'  on   the  watci-   toi-  ten   (hi\'^;   thai    it 


6 

udukl  t'X])ir('  within  a  dav  or  two,  niul  until  then  the 
natives  could  not  go  alongside.  The  ya^vl  now  being 
on  shore  we  began  our  l^arter  and  at  evening  we  got  on 
board  with  a  hog  and  a  good  stm-k  of  vegetables. 
The  lios])itaHty  of  Tidi  Miti  (  Kcliiniaikai  \k)  ) 
wlien  1  lan(h'(|  I  must  not  ])ass  over;  he  first  took  iiic 
into  a  circh*  of  about  sixtv  girls,  who  ])artially  rested 
theuiselves  witii  tlieii'  elbows  on  their  knees,  and  l)y 
verv  ex})ressi\e  signs  told  nie  if  1  had  eonie  for  a  w  ife 
1  could  take  which  I  pleased;  after  which  he  took  uie 
to  his  house  and  treated  me  with  the  fi'uits  of  the 
island.  This  was  veiw  grateful  after  getting  on  sh(»re 
in  a  hoi  siiu.  We  landed  at  Fowchai  Bay  (Jvawai- 
hae  Bay),  in  the  district  of  Ko-ah-ra  (Kohala),  on  tlie 
northeast  ])art  of  the  island,  and  although  the  boat 
was  surrounded  they  did  not  attempt  to  take  anything 
fi-om  us  dishonestly.  I  landed  determined  to  get  into 
no  (puirrel,  and  if  they  should  want  my  shirt  they 
should  have  it  or  anything  else  that  I  had.  What 
I  had  calculated  to  do  from  prudence  I  felt  willing  to 
do  gratuitously  almost,  after  I  was  received  in  so 
friendly  a  manner.  We  found  John  Yoimg  and  the 
Irishman  (^fartin)  on  board;  the  latter  frightened  the 
rwo  Indians  on  board  very  much  by  telling  them  the 
king  would  have  them  killed  for  breaking  the  tal)oo. 
The  white  men  on  the  island,  it  appears,  are  not 
obliged  to  respect  the  tal>oo.  Thty  left  us  in  the  even- 
ing and  went  on  shore  and  we  stood  otf  and  on  through 
the  night  with  the  ship,  wind  light  and  almost  from 
W  t<i  WNAV. 
Aug.  13th  On  the  ir»th  we  ran  in  and  I  again  went  on  shore  in 

J179S  fi^p  yawl  for  John  Young.  I  remained  on  shore  and 
he  went  otf  to  bring  the  ship  in:  which  he  brought  in 
and  anchored  at  ^P.  :\r.  Wind  fresh  at  WXW.  1 
spent  the  day  Mith  Tidi  Miti  (Keliimakai  (k)  )  aud 
retui'ued  on  board  the  shi]>  in  the  evening.  Although 
the  taitoo  was  not  otf  until  next  morning  there  were  a 
good  uiauy  of  the  natives  visited  the  ship:  they  came 
otf    ])rivat(dy    fi-om    ditferent    quarters.      Although    the 


tahiMi  was  very  rigidly  enforced,  tlieir  curiosity  conkl 
not  l)e  restrained. 

The   taboo   was   off  and   we   were   snrrounded    with      ^lug,  i6th 
canoes  very  early  in  the  morning.     Tidi  ]Midi   (  Kelii-  ■''"^'^ 

maikai  (k)  )  visited  ns  and  remained  two  or  three  days 
with  ns.  (Japt.  Greenie  received  a  letter  from  the  king 
(Kamehanieha  (k)  ),  probably  written  by  I.  Davis, 
welcoming  him  to  the  island  and  saying  he  shoidd 
visit  ns ;  which  he  answered  and  sent  him  a  con])le  bot- 
tles wine  an<l  a  conple  bottles  i-uiu,  which  was  conform- 
able to  the  advice  of  Mr.  Yoinig.  We  bartered  nails, 
knives  and  hatchets  for  hogs  and  vegetables.  Tidi 
Miti's  (Keliinuiikai  (k)  )  wife  (Kiilawean  (w)  )  also 
visited  ns  and  remained  with  him. 

Homes,  a  Yankee  from   Plymonth,   Alassachusetts,      .]»-/.  irth 
came  on  board:  said  he  had  been  here  two  years;  had  a  ^^'^^ 

wife  and  two  children.  AVe  c()ntinue<l  our  traffic  as 
nsnal  through  the  day  and  at  sundown  'I'idi  ^fiti 
(Keliimaikai  (k)  )  talxx^ed  the  water  around  the  ship 
nntil  the  next  uiorning,  when  the  canoes  left  us. 

("a])t.     Stewart,     an     Kngiishiuan,     visited     us     and       Auii.  iSth 
with     ]\I  !•.     ^'oung     and      tlicir     wives'-      i-eniaincd     on  ' 

board.  Capt.  Sttnvart  had  been  there  four  years.  "Mr. 
Yonng  made  ns  a  ])i-esent  of  a  v(M-y  tine  turtle  of 
about  sixty  ])oinids.  Surrounded  through  the  day  with 
canoes,  and  all  hands  trading.  At  sun  jown  i;d»oocd 
by  Tidi  ]\liti  (Keliimaikai  (k)  ).  We,  however,  al- 
lowed some  of  the  natives  to  remain  on  board  throuiih 
the  night,  but  never  so  many  as  to  be  in  any  dang<  r 
from  them.  We  never  allowed  more  than  our  own 
numl^er  on  board  at  any  time  and  we  always  kejjt  a 
part  of  the  ci-ew   under  arms. 

KKSCl.'ll'l'lO.V     <»l'      KA.\I  i:il  AM  KIIA      I 

At  about  sunrise,  the  king,  wliosc  name  is  Amaiam-      Atis.  iQth 
ai-ah     fKameliamcba  (k)    ),    came-  on     board     in    (piilc 
handsome    st\lc    in    a    double   canoe,    paddlecl    liv    about 
five  and  twenty  men.     lie  was  seaieil  on  liie  center,  on  n 

*Jolin    Youiiui's   wife   ;il    tliis   time   was    Xaiiinkucliia    ( u  ),   ;i 
woman  of  the  Oaliu   aristocracv,   from   Kailiia.  Oalni. — I'.d. 


platfunu  about  four  feet  liiglier  rliau  the  sides  of  the 
canoe;  lie  seemed  to  be  not  far,  one  v.av  oi-  tbc  otlui\ 
from  forty  rears  of  age;  a  large  athletic  man,  well  pro- 
portioned, perhaps  a  little  over  six  feet ;  rather  a  re- 
served, forbidding  countenance,  at  tirst  view ;  two 
upper  fore  teeth  gone,  which  added  to  the  harshness 
of  his  countenance;  a  keen,  penetrating  eve  and  a  go<xl 
one,  which  rather  contradicted  the  conidusion  to  be 
drawn  from  the  other  parts  of  his  face.  He  had  nn  ;in 
English  dress  of  blue  broad-cloth  for  his  coat  and  pan- 
taloons, trimmed  with  red;  his  waistcoat  red,  trimmed 
with  fur.  He  very  soon  got  rid  of  that  uncomfortable 
dress  and  appeared  in  the  same  that  his  subjects  do. 
He  is  very  active  and  was  all  over  the  ship  in  a  few 
minutes  and  making  many  questions.  AVhile  we  lay 
there  I  proposed  learning  him  the  compass,  which  I  had 
some  reason  to  regret,  for  he  kept  me  at  it  continually 
until  he  learned  it.  He  brought  on  board  with  him  a 
dozen  stand  of  arms ;  this  was  for  show,  as  they  passed 
them  on  board  the  ship  and  they  were  stowed  away  half 
out  of  order  imtil  he  left  us  again.  It  is  very  difficult 
keeping  his  muskets  in  order,  f(U'  they  feel  so  pleased 
with  them  that  they  keep  snapping  them.  One  of  his 
Avives  (Kaahumanu  (w)  )  came  on  board  with  him:  she 
was  a  large  woman,  Avith  a  great  deal  of  the  cloth  of  the 
country  around  her,  which  she  also  soon  got  rid  of  and 
appeared  as  other  Indian  women.  He  also  brought 
a  Jew  cook  with  him,  and  if  he  remains  here  I  think 
it  Avill  be  difficult  to  trace  his  descendants,  for  he  is 
nearly  as  dark  as  they  are.  He  Avas  soon  followed 
by  Isaac  Davis,  in  another  canoe  Avith  the  king's  other 
Avife  (Kalakua  (av)  ),  Avho  is  sister  to  the  tirst  one:  they 
are  both  of  them  large,  fat  Avomen.  The  king  s  daugh- 
ter (Xahienaena  (av)  ),  a  princess,  soon  came  on  lx>ard 
after  the  king;  she  had  Avith  her  two  boys  of  about  a 
dozen  years  as  a  Avatch  over  her  conduct,  she  Ijeing 
tabooed  by  her  father,  Avho  says  she  is  to  marry  some 
great  chief;  her  mother  (Keopuolani  (w)  )  was  a  avo- 
man  of  rank  but  not  wife  to  the  kin^'.    Davis  said  the 


kiiH>-  and  his  daughter  ( Xahieiiaeiia  (w )  )  were  vcrx 
much  attached  to  each  other,  l)ut  notAvithstaiiding  she 
appeared  very  diffident  about  going  to  the  cabin  to  see 
him.  I  had  the  honor  of  waiting  on  her  in,  bnt  they 
took  no  particular  notice  of  each  other.  The  king 
(Kaniehanieha  (k)  )  and  his  brother  (Keliimaikai  (k)  ) 
did  not  appear  to  take  particular  notice  of  each  other, 
but  the  next  day  (August  20,  1798),  in  meeting  with 
a  couple  of  chiefs  whom  he  had  not  seen  for  some 
time,  they  all  three  kneeled  doAvn  together  and  cric^d 
very  loud  and  the  tears  flowed  very  profusely.  Two 
sisters  met  in  the  same  way  one  day  on  board.  We 
had  now  all  the  royal  family  on  board.  The  jirincess 
(]!^ahienaena  (w)  )  is  about  fifteen  years  of  age.  not 
handsome,  but  a  fine,  plumj),  healthy-looking  girl  and 
very  sprightly.  AVhen  I  was  making  some  memo- 
randum in  my  journal  she  very  sportively  took  the  pen 
out  of  my  hand  and  attempted  to  write.  I  therefore 
can  show  jon  her  writing  when  I  get  home.  In  the 
afternoon  I  went  on  shore  in  an  Indian  canoe  and  had 
a  swimming  match  with  the  Indians.  I  had  a  g(X)d 
deal  of  sport  with  two  hundred  of  all  sorts  and  sizes ; 
they  woidd  any  of  them  swim  two  feet  to  uiv  one; 
they  laughed  very  heartily  at  seeing  my  white  sluudd- 
ers  among  their  dark  ones;  any  of  the  children  would 
outswim  me.  I  rctui'uecl  ou  boiird  ship  in  tlic  evening. 
Wo  had  the  wind  from  sea  thi-ongh  the  day  and  ofl'  tlie 
laud  through  the  night. 

'l^he     cliief     (Kam(;eianioku  (k)  )     who     cut     nfl"     a      .hii^.joth 
schooner    ("Fair  American"),   a   tender  of  ("a]>t.    .Met-  ^/"'>"'' 

calf,*   came   alongside   the  ship.      Tlie   king    (Kamelia- 
uieha  (k)   )    was  i"e(|uest('d   to  or<h'i-  him  off,  and  be  did 

'^Cajitain  Mc-tcalf  carritd  out  tlic  first  sial  skins  and  witli 
Captain  Kcndrick  from  I')<)st(in,  wtri'  tlic  two  first  adventurers 
from  tlic  United  States  to  tlic  Xorth  West  Coast.  Captain  Ken- 
drick  was  killed  in  rcceivinfi;  a  salute  from  anotlier  vessel  in  con- 
sequence of  one  of  lier  kh"^  heing  accidentally  shotted,  at 
Walioo  (Oahu)  one  of  the  San<lwicli  Islands.  Cai)tain  Metcalf 
was  killed  on  the  North  West  Coast.  P>f)tli  of  them  made  several 
successful  voj'Hgcs  from  Canton  to  the  coast,  hut  their  owners 
were  never  henefited.  They  sfx  nt  il  as  tluv  wtnt  aloni;.  hrom 
Townscnd's  Diary,  p.  28. 


10 

.so.  lie  (  KaiiU'ciaiiKiku  (  k  )  )  was  siuartlv  clix'sscd  uji 
t'nr  the  visit,  and  when  (>r<U'i'c(l  on  shore  was  hiuiihed 
at  h_v  the  Indians.  Isaac  Davis  heiujj,  the  only  man 
saxed,  and  he  and  John  ^'(»ini<>  heiug  then  on  board  1 
liot  from  them  th(^  partieidars.  ('a[)t.  ^Ictealt",  of  New 
^'ork,  on  a  northwest  voyauc,  havinji-  a  small  seh(H)nei- 
("Fair  American"),  a  tender  with  him,  had  api)ointed 
Owhyhee  (Jlawaii)  a  place  of  rendezvous  in  ease  thev 
were  sejjarated,  ('a])t.  Metealf  iiave  command  of  the 
schooner  to  his  son;  Isaac  Davis  was  his  mate.  Al- 
though the  father  and  son  had  been  separated  several 
months,  thev  both  fell  in  with  the  Island  of  Owhyhee 
(Hawaii)  the  same  day;  the  father  to  the  windward 
and  the  son  to  leeward  of  the  island.  Jlaving'  visited 
the  island  l)efore,  yonng  Metealf  placed  toc>  mnch  con- 
fidence in  them,  not  refieetinii  there  was  no  law  to  pro- 
tect him  and  that  he  was  completely  at  the  mercy  of 
the  chief  who  connnanded,  with  the  most  powerfid 
tem])tation  to  net  possession  of  his  vessel,  everythini;' 
(»n  board  of  which  they  were  anxious  to  possess.  This 
chief  (Kameeiamoku  (k)  )  was  the  rascal.  The  deck 
Ixnug-  fidl  of  Indians  they  at  once  ninrdered  the  cajv 
tain  (yoiinif  Metealf)  and  every  man  excepting  Davis, 
and  hove  them  overboard;  him  they  knocked  down  and 
hove  overboard,  bnt  afterwards  took  him  into  a  canoe 
to  save  him  and  took  him  on  shore.  AVhen  the  king 
(  Kamehameha  (k)  )  was  informed  of  this  rascally 
transaction  he  was  very  iimch  of1-"ende(l,  but  the  per- 
]»eti-atoi'  (Kameeiamoku  ( k)  )  was  a  ])owerful  chief, 
ami  fi'om  |>olicv  the  rascal  was  not  piddicly  punished, 
and  at  that  time  they  had  bnt  A'ery  little  communica- 
tion with  strangers,  who  were  considered  rather  as 
intruders  than  as  entitled  to  any  of  their  hospitality. 
I'he  king  (  Kamehameha),  however,  went  immediately 
down  and  took  charge  of  Davis,  took  him  home  with 
him.  and  has  been  a  very  tender  father  to  him  ever 
>iucc.  The  next  day  after  that  transaction,  Capt.  ^Tet- 
calf.  the  father,  running  along  the  island  landed  a 
boat'-  crew  near  where  the  schooner  was  cut  off  and 


11 

the  natives  got  possession  of  Mr.  Johu  Yoiuiii-,  who  was 
boatswain  of  the  ship.  He  was  taken  back  to  see  Davis, 
and  has  also  experienced  the  particnlar  friendship  of 
the  king,  who  indulges  them  both  with  as  ninch  land  as 
they  want  and  as  many  slaves  as  they  wish.  Cajit. 
Metcalf  soon  got  sight  of  the  schooner  and  learned  the 
fate  of  his  son.  At  this  time  there  were  a  gTeat  many 
Indians  in  their  canoes  around  him.  He  waited  until 
he  was  well  surrounded  when  he  opened  a  tire  with  his 
broadsides  and  killed  as  many  as  he  could.*  I  could 
not  ascertain  with  any  degree  of  confidence  how  many 
he  killed,  but  the  Indians  did  not  appear  to  think  he 
did  wrong,  although  it  very  unfortunately  so  hap- 
pened that  none  of  the  guilty  ones  were  there,  for  he 
was  not  oft"  the  right  village.  This  was  certainly  a  most 
cruel  thing,  and  although  I  am  willing  and  am  disposed 
to  make  great  allowance  for  the  feelings  of  a  father, 
and  believe  none  but  a  father,  under  the  circumstances, 
would  make  sufticient  allowance  for  him,  yet  I  thiidc  it 
was  very  barbarous,  and  that  it  was  unjustifiable.  Per- 
haps his  feelings  had  completely  deranged  his  mind, 
so  that  it  was  the  act  of  a  madman.  If  he  had  acted 
wisely  he  might  have  got  the  chief  himself,  the  execu- 
tion of  whom  would  have  been  more  serviceable  and 
gratified  his  resentment  more.  Young  and  Davis  now 
are  right-hand  men  to  the  king  and  are  very  serviceable 
to  him  as  well  as  to  the  foreigners  who  visit  the  island. 
They  honestly  appear  to  consult  the  interest  of  the  vis- 
itors and  visited.  We  had  (ju  l)oard  of  our  shi])  that  (hiy 
an  evidence  of  equal  depravity  to  a  savage.  A  uiaii  bv 
the  name  of  ]\rartin,  an  Irishman,  whom  Ca])t.  (ii-ccuc 
had  told  he  woidd  let  him  have  a  ])assag('  down  to 
China.  For  sonic  triHiug  oft'euce  taken  on  shore  al  an 
Indian  s(>me  time  before,  ^lartin  seeing  him  come 
alongside,  and  thinking  himself  safe,  determined  on 
having  revenge.     He  took  the  ninski-t  out  of  the  hands 

*This  was  evidently  tlic  Olowalu  in.issacre.  wliicli  in  reality 
Happened  several  days  before  at  Maui.  Tiiis  account  is  .t  new 
version  of  the  affair,  and  is  proI)al)ly  incorrect,  as  earlier  visitors 
agree  that  the  Olowalu  massacre  happened  at  Maui  l)efon'  Caj)!. 
Metcalf  visited   Hawaii. — Ed. 


12 

of  the  seutrj  and  lired  at  the  ludian.  who  happened 
to  see  what  he  was  doing  just  soon  enough  to  jump  out 
of  the  way,  but  the  ball  went  through  the  canoe  where 
he  had  sat.  C'apt.  Greene  had  him  tied  up  immediately 
and  ordered  him  three  dozen,  and  the  boatswain  to 
give  it  to  him  in  the  presence  of  the  king  (Kameha- 
meha  (k)  ),  who  soon  thought  he  could  do  it  better 
himself,  and  took  the  rope's  end  from  the  boatswain 
and  put  it  on  well  until  Capt.  Greene  requested  him  to 
desist.  He  was  then  untied  and  ordered  to  be  put 
on  shore ;  but  on  his  stating  that  he  should  be  killed  by 
the  Indians,  and  begging  on  his  knees  for  his  life,  Capt. 
Greene's  usual  humane  feelings  were  brought  into  ac- 
tion, and  he  suffered  him  to  remain,  and  he  is  yet  on 
board  as  humble  as  a  dog,  Martin  had  procured  me 
a  very  sprightly  boy  which  I  intended  to  l)ring  with 
me  to  America,  but  on  seeing  this  fracas  he  thought 
himself,  and  I  think  very  correctly,  better  off  at  home. 
AVe  continued  our  trade.  We  bought  a  numl)er  of 
hogs  from  the  king,  for  which  we  paid  from  three  pints 
to  five  quarts  of  rum  each.  In  the  evening  one  of  the 
queens  got  very  drunk,  which  the  king  took  no  par- 
ticular notice  of. 

Aug.  2ist  On  the  21st  we  agTced  with  Amai-amai-ah  (Kame- 

179S  hameha  (k)  ),  the  king,  for  all  our  deficiency  of  sup- 
plies, to  receive  them  at  Wahoo  (Oahu),  an  island 
to  leeward.  We  agreed  and  paid  for  at  the  same  time 
forty-five  large  hogs,  and  as  much  sugar-cane  and 
vegetables  as  would  fill  our  quarter  deck  square  with 
the  binnacle,  and  as  high  as  the  quarter  rails.  We 
paid  a  barrel  of  flour  for  twelve  hogs ;  a  barrel  of  pitch 
for  ten  hogs,  and  a  large  pitch  kettle  for  eleven  hogs ; 
the  balance  we  paid  in  canvas,  rice,  and  blocks  and 
some  rigging. 

I  was  very  much  diverted  at  a  little  piece  of  finesse 
in  the  king  (Kamehameha  (k)  ),  on  my  measuring  out 
some  rum  to  him.  As  I  was  measuring  it  in  a  quart 
pot,  when  I  had  put  twenty  quarts  (every  one  he 
counted),  he  said  I  had  put  in  but  nineteen;  I  asserted 


13 

I  was  right,  lie  said  not,  and  that  I  must  put  in  an- 
other. 1  was  certain  I  was  right,  and  did  not  believe 
but  that  he  knew  as  well  as  I  did,  for  he  is  a  hawk- 
eved  fellow.  1  persisted  and  began  to  measure  it  over 
again,  when  he  proposed  to  split  the  difference  (this  he 
must  have  learned  from  some  Yankee).  When  he  saw 
I  would  not  agree  to  that,  but  continued  to  measure,  he 
said  it  was  no  importance,  and  let  it  go  as  it  was.  Do 
not  consider  this  dishonesty  or  meanness  in  him,  for  he 
was  free  from  either;  it  was  rather  a  piece  of  wit 
wliieli  he  wished  to  exercise. 

In  the  afternoon  we  unmoored  the  ship  and  pre- 
pared to  get  under  way.  John  Young  received  a  let- 
ter from  Worth,"  our  acquaintance  of  the  Falkland 
Islands;  he  had  just  arrived  and  was  laving  at  Karah- 
choora  Bay  (Kealakekua  Bay).  The  king,  with  all  the 
royal  family  and  other  visitors,  left  us,  except  Isaac 
Davis  and  Stewart  and  Homes ;  the  first  who  came 
down  with  us  to  see  the  contract  made  with  the  king  ful- 
filled. On  leaving  Davis  the  king  embraced  him  and 
cried  like  a  child.  Davis  said  he  always  did  when  he 
left  him,  for  he  was  always  apprehensive  that  he 
might  leave  him,  although  he  had  promised  him  he 
would  never  do  it  without  giving  him  previous  no- 
tice. We  tried  to  persuade  him  to  continue  with  us, 
and  finally  he  said  nothing  prevented  him  l)ut  the 
promise  he  had  made  the  king.  It  was  not  long  after 
the  king  left  us  before  he  returned  and  jumping  in  on 
deck  presented  me  with  one  of  my  pistols.  As  we 
were  always  on  the  lookout  I  kept  my  pistols  loaded 
under  the  head  of  my  bed  from  where  it  was  stolen. 
An  Indian  got  it  and  jumped  with  it  out  of  the  cabin 
window,  and  when  he  got  on  shore  presented  it  to  the 
king,  and  as  it  was  the  pistol,  which  I  handed,  on  my 
first  landing,  to  Tidi  ^Fiti  (Keliimaikai  (k)  ),  the 
king's  hrother,  be  fold  biiii  whose  it  was,  when  lie  im- 
mediately brouglil  it  off'  to  me.  It  was  so  ii(':it  a  thin- 
he   would    ha\('   Ix'cii    ph'ased    at  kee]>ing   it.      When    he 

Capt.  Barzillai  Worth,  in  brig  "Garland."     p.  21  Ii)id.— Kd. 


14 

left  us  both  times  we  gave  liim  three  cheers,  which  he 
returned  very  well  with  his  Indians. 

CUSTOMS    OF    irAWAIIAXS    TX    1798 

Aug.  22nd  ^Ve  did  not  get  under  way  until  about  midnight,  as 

^798  it  took  us  a  long  while  to  get  our  anchors;  it  was  good 
holding  ground.  Davis,  with  Homes  and  Stewart, 
being  on  board  gave  me  a  good  oi)portunity  of  getting 
what  information  they  possessed,  which  you  shall  have 
the  beneht  of.  Stewart  has  been  master  of  a  vessel 
and  is  a  man  of  considerable  intelligence ;  has  been 
here  four  years.  Davis  and  Homes  are  illiterate  but 
very  honest  men.  Davis  has  been  here  eight  or  nine 
years  and  Homes  two  years.  They  all  speak  in  the 
highest  terms  of  the  king.  They  say  what  Capt.  Cook 
called  a  Moral  the  natives  call  Hi-ow  (Heiau),  and 
is  not,  as  he  supposed,  a  burying  place,  but  where  the 
chiefs  and  tlie  priests  meet  and  make  oiferings,  praying 
for  a  gratification  of  their  wishes,  which  agrees  with 
the  prayers  of  our  own  clergy,  for  I  do  not  understand 
their  prayers  are  particularly  selfish  but  for  the  good 
of  the  natiou.  They,  however,  being  heathen  pray  to 
their  idols  which  are  scattered  about  in  the  Moral  or 
Hi-ow  (heiau),  which  by  us  may  be  called  a  temple. 
Their  idols  are  not  in  the  shape  of  anything  in  the 
heavens  above,  or  in  the  earth  below,  or  in  the  waters 
under  the  earth.  In  these  places  human  victims  are 
sometimes  offered,  but  they  are  those  w^ho  have  for- 
feited their  lives  by  their  conduct.  They  say  Avhen  a 
chief  dies  his  body  is  rolled  up  snug  in  tapper  (Kapa), 
which  is  the  cloth  of  the  country,  and  a  house  built 
over  it,  where  it  lies  until  the  flesh  is  consumed.  The 
bones  are  then  placed,  they  believe,  in  some  general 
family  deposit.  The  women-people,  when  they  die,  are 
tied  neck  and  heels  and  sometimes  buried  and  some- 
times hove  into  the  sea.  The  clergy  are  hereditary 
and  as  full  of  ceremony  as  the  Catholics  and  have  a 
great  deal  of  authority;  it  is  they  that  regulate  the 
taboos,  and  although  the^^  are  generally  regular,  they 


•       15 

can  la  J  intermediate  ones  when  thev  please,  and  that 
it  is  death  to  violate  them.  However,  by  the  manner  of 
their  visiting  ovir  ship  the  night  before  it  was  off,  as  I 
have  already  remarked  to  yon,  it  wonld  appear  that 
they  were  not  so  rigidly  enforced,  as  well  as  by  the 
two  men  hazarding  a  visit  on  board  when  we  first  made 
the  islands.  But  the  cnriosity  of  these  Indians  is  very 
great  and  not  like  the  North  American  Indians,  who 
affect  not  to  have  any.  The  chiefs  cannot  eat  pork 
nnless  it  has  been  killed  and  consecrated  at  the  tem- 
ple. What  they  call  their  Marliahiti  (makahiki), 
Avhich  is  their  annnal  taboo  and  comes  regular  by  so 
many  moons,  is  about  a  month  before  Christmas,  and 
during  that  they  are  prohibited  from  fighting,  and 
then  they  who  cultivate  the  land  make  payment  of 
tithes  to  the  chiefs,  who  are  the  o^^'ners,  of  which  there 
are  too  many,  but,  notwithstanding,  those  who  Avork 
make  it  rather  an  exercise  than  labor,  for  they  only 
work  in  the  cool  of  the  morning  and  evening,  retiring 
to  the  shade  whenever  the  sun  becomes  uncomfortable. 
They  speak  of  time  by  so  many  ]\Iarhahitas  (maka- 
hiki). The  young  women  never  work  out-doors  but  the 
old  ones  do.  The  women  at  the  birth  of  their  child- 
ren retire  from  the  society  of  the  men,  and  then  on 
monthly  periods  also,  when  they  entirely  retire  and  it 
would  be  death  not  to  do  so.  Pork,  plantains  and  coco- 
nuts are  tabooed  to  the  women,  as  well  as  some  other 
scarce  articles ;  some  because  they  ai'e  scarce  and  some 
for  other  reasons,  l)ut  I  found  the  woiueu  very  glad  to 
eat  any  of  those  articles  if  they  were  out  of  the  reach 
of  detection.  That  the  taboo  which  was  on  wheu  we 
arrived,  for  ten  days,  was  regular  every  six  uionths. 
The  women  are  never  allowed  to  eat  of  what  the  men 
have  eaten  a  part.  On  board  of  us,  wheu  we  offered 
them  aiiything  to  eat,  would  ask  if  the  men  li;i<l  calcu 
(»f  it.  The  same  Avith  the  meu.  If  we  answered  yes 
or  no.  it  was  all  the  proof  required.  Tidi  ^liti  (Kelii- 
maikai  (k)  ),  I  uoticed  while  on  Ix.nnl.  would  nol  ciit 
some  salt  fish  fi'oui  a  ]»lalcfnl  l)cc;iii>c  some  ot   the  wo- 


16 

meu  had  eaten  from  it,  but  lie  did  not  make  the  same 
objection  Avhen  we  got  on  another  plate,  althongh  -we 
got  it  ont  of  the  same  box.  The  men  and  women  have 
their  respective  eating-houses ;  a  man  and  his  wife 
never  eat  in  the  same  house ;  if  either  sex  enter  the 
eating-house  of  the  other  it  would  be  pulled  down.  The 
chiefs  as  well  as  natives  generallv  are  great  gamblers 
and  frequently  plav  away  their  lands,  their  wives  and 
their  children.  One  of  the  chiefs  insisted  on  playing 
checkers  with  Capt.  Greene  for  a  hog.  He  had  paid 
considerable  attention  to  the  game  and  could  play  it, 
but  not  Avell  enough ;  he  lost  his  hog.  The  king  is  now 
building  a  house  at  Mowhee  (Lahaina,  Maui),  which  is 
to  be  built  and  furnished  in  the  English  style.  He  cal- 
culates to  make  it  his  residence  part  of  the  time.  It 
appears  to  be  a  policy  with  him  to  change  his  resi- 
dence occasionally,  which  I  think  is  a  good  plan  for 
him,  for  where  he  is  known  he  will  be  popular.  He 
obtained  his  throne  by  fighting  for  it,  in  Avhich  he 
proved  his  talents  as  well  as  his  popularity.  At  the 
demise  of  a  king  there  are  always  several  candidates 
whose  claims  are  nearly  equal ;  although  hereditary, 
not  so  closely  defined  but  that  there  are  plausible 
claims.  The  most  popular  gets  it.  The  present  king 
(Kamehameha  (k)  )  had  a  number  of  severe  actions 
and  slew  his  adversary  fairly  on  the  field  of  battle. 
There  have  been  several  insurrections  but  none  recently. 
He,  however,  was  not  able  to  bring  the  leeward  islands 
under  his  jurisdiction  until  within  about  two  years. 
The  last  which  he  conquered  is  Wahoo,  or  Worhoo 
(Oahu),  where  they  had  a  very  hard-fought  battle; 
part  of  the  king's  force  joining  the  enemy.  There  is, 
hoAvever,  yet  another  island  unconquered,  Avhich  is 
Attoi  (Kauai),  and  Amai-amai-ah  (Kamehameha)  has 
been  a  long  time  building  his  canoes  to  attack  it,  which 
he  does  not  appear  to  be  in  a  hurry  to  do,  and  if  he 
does,  it  will  be  some  time  first.  He  has  the  advantage 
of  his  opponents  in  having  more  muskets  than  they. 
The  difi^erence  lietween  them  and  sj^ears  is  very  great. 


17 

Inferiors  always  stoop  when  auvthing  passes  belonging 
to  stiperiors  in  rank;  when  anything  passes  belonging 
to  the  king  they  stoop,  the  person  who  is  carrying  it 
crying  out  "Xory"  ("Xoh<:)'" — sir  down)  :  there  are  those 
whom  the  king  stoops  to,  for  there  are  those  who  rank 
higher,  although  of  not  so  much  j^ower.  The  lands  be- 
longing to  the  king  are  very  extensive,  the  residue  are 
divided  among  the  nobles  who  are  masters  of  those 
who  work  them,  who  have  the  privilge  of  changing  mas- 
ters when  they  please.  The  nobles,  who  are  heredi- 
tary, therefore  are  not  masters  of  the  time  of  their 
vassals.  The  king  can  take  the  life  of  a  nobleman  or 
slave  when  he  pleases,  and  he  often  deprives  them  of 
their  estates  for  violent  acts  of  injustice. 

It  is  very  much  doubted  whether  Capt.  Cook  was 
the  iirst  discoverer  of  these  i^^lands ;  it  in  fact  appears 
j)retty  evident  that  he  was  not ;  however,  he  may  be 
entitled  to  the  credit  of  it,  provided  he  received  no  aid 
in  the  discovery  and  the  Spaniards  from  policy  obliter- 
ated the  discovery  of  their  own  navigators.  I  presunie 
Cook  knew  nothing  of  them  before  he  saw  them,  Imt 
as  the  Spaniards  had  laid  down  a  group  of  islands  in 
the  same  latitude,  a  few  degrees  eastward  of  the  Sand- 
wich Islands,  where  there  are  none,  it  is  likely  to  be 
the  same,  for  at  that  time  they  could  not  be  sup])osed 
to  be  very  correct  in  their  longitude.  There  is  at 
Mowee  (Maui)  the  ring  and  part  of  the  shank  of  an 
anchor  of  about  seven  hundred  weight  which  wa>:  not 
long  ago  hooked  up  there,  where  there  is  no  recollec- 
tion oi  there  ever  having  been  a  vessel,  and  from  the 
appearance  it  must  have  been  there  a  great  many  years. 
Mr.  Young  says  they  have  a  tradition  thai  a  coiiitlc 
of  white  men  came  on  shore  and  rciuaincMl  there  abnui 
one  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago.  Th(y  laudecl  in  :i 
small  vessel  covered  over  with  skins  and  lie  had  Men 
their  descendants  which  satistie<|  him  of  ibe  irnih  <>1 
the  story,  and  that  tliey  were  wliite.  We  bad  light 
breezes  through  the  day  IV. mi  XXK  to  KXK;  throngli 
the  night  we  lay  becabne<1  under  Mowee  (  Maui).    We 


18 

killed  eight  lK)iis  and  salted  them  down,  taking  ont  all 
the  bone. 
Aug.  23rd         Angnst  2;)d  caught  a  shark.     The  Indians  belonging 
^^^  to  the  families  of  the  white  men  saved  the  teeth,  as 

they  use  them  to  cut  their  hair.  We  had  light  winds 
fore  part  of  the  day,  the  latter  part  we  liad  a  good 
breeze  from  the  XXE  which  run  us  off  Wahoo  (Oahu), 
where  we  stood  on  and  off  through  the  night. 

OAHU 

Alt"  24th  August  ::!4th.     Early  in  the  morning  we  were  close 

179S  in  with  Wahoo  (Oahu),  off  Diamond  Hill  (Diamond 
Head),  when  the  canoes  began  to  visit  us.  We  steered 
along  XW  by  W  until  Diamond  Hill  (Diamond  Head) 
on  Whitreter  Bluff  (Waikiki  Bluff)  bore  S  72°  E  per 
comj^ass,  when  we  anchored  in  ten  fathoms,  sandy  bot- 
tom with  small  shells  and  scattered  coral  rock.  We  an- 
chored rather  far  out.  In  the  afternoon  I  went  on 
shore  with  ]\rr.  Davis  when  he  gave  orders  for  our 
supply  early  in  the  morning,  we  laying  about  two  and 
a  half  miles  from  the  landing. 

'^"":  "o^'^'  Early  in  the  morning  we  began  receiving  our  sup- 

ply, which  was  delivered  to  us  faster  than  we  could 
take  it  on  board.  The  Indians  were  flocking  in  from 
every  plantation  with  hogs  and  vegetables.  Pleasant 
weather,  A\ind  at  XE. 

HONOLULU 

Atig.  26th  I    went   on   shore   with    an   intention    of  getting   a 

J79S  couple  of  boys,  one  for  Capt.  Grreene  and  one  for  my- 
self, but  they  being  informed  of  my  views  were  very 
shy;  the  l)oys  would  run  from  us  when  we  came  near 
them.  It  was  very  different  from  what  it  was  at 
Ow-hy-hee  (Hawaii),  for  there  we  could  have  got  as 
many  boys  as  we  pleased.  We  were  anxious  to  have 
just  such  as  we  pleased  which  accounts  for  our  not 
getting  them.  There  Avas  some  unaccountable  cause 
for  their  shyness :  it  was  not  the  case  with  the  natives 
generally.     We  did  not  take  much  pains  for  we  had  no 


19 

wish  to  get  any  but  those  who  wished  to  go  with  us. 
Au  American  by  the  name  of  Hamilton  resided  there. 
I  fonnd  the  Island  of  Wahoo  (Oahn)  a  delightful  one. 
The  harbor  (Honolulu  harbor)  is  a  good  one  but 
rather  narrow  to  get  in.  ■  The  ship  lay  rather  in  the 
bay  as  it  is  generally  difficult  to  get  into  the  harbor 
but  by  warping.  I  have  a  draft  of  this  harbor  which  I 
have  copied  from  one  in  the  possession  of  Capt.  Stew- 
art. The  lands  are  in  the  highest  state  of  cultivation, 
everything  of  luxurious  growth ;  the  sugar-cane  finer 
than  any  I  have  ever  seen,  I  think  rather  larger  than 
at  Ow-hy-hee  (Hawaii)  and,  as  at  that  Island,  you  here 
see  the  bread-fruit,  coconut,  plantain,  sweet  potatoes, 
taro,  yams,  banana,  which  are  native  productions,  and 
Avatermelons,  muskmelons,  pumpkins,  cabbages  and 
most  of  our  garden  vegetables  introduced  by  foreigners. 
They  suj^ply  themselves  wath  salt  in  the  same  manner 
as  at  Turk's  Island  in  the  West  Indies.  Small  pans 
are  made  in  the  ground  near  the  sea  water,  which  is 
let  in  occasionally  and  by  evaporation  produces  the  salt. 
They  have  artificial  fish  ponds  both  of  fresh  and  salt 
water,  without  which  their  supply  of  fish  would  not 
be  l)ountiful.  These  ponds  would  do  credit  to  a  re- 
fined state  of  society.  There  are  natural  ponds  that 
abound  with  fresh-water  fish.  On  the  island  is  a 
pearl-oyster  (  .  <n'  Pearl  Harbor). 

It  is  in  a  river  about  three  or  four  miles  from  whore 
we  anchored.  AVe  got  some  few  ])earls  and  some  of  the 
])eai'l  oyster  shells,  which  is  called,  you  kuow,  iiioihcr- 
of-]>earl.  In  the  afternoon  our  contract  Iteiug  houor- 
al)ly  complied  with  and  we  having  received  the  forty- 
five  hogs  and  vegetables,  till  we  said  we  had  euou<ih. 
having  in  all  then  on  board  one  hundred  and  forry-tive 
hogs,  some  siuall  but  mostly  froui  SO  pounds  up  to  -J,')!) 
]iounds,  with  au  aui]»le  sujiply  of  sugar  (•:in(>  im-  \ho 
hogs,    as    well    as    every    other    production    which    wo 

wanted,   we  got   under   way  and   st 1   out  of   the  bay 

about  4  (."clock.  Before  we  slarleil,  h;i\iiii!  l.cucliletl  so 
iiinch    bv    the    a'ood    offices    of    Isaac    l)a\is,    who    was 


20 

clotlitHl  with  the  supreme  power  while  at  this  ishuul, 
and  on  all  occasions  had  been  onr  friend  with  the 
king,  we  presented  him  with  ten  gallons  of  liquors, 
rum,  brandy  and  gin,  a  barrel  of  beef,  a  musket,  a 
cheese,  some  coffee  and  chocolate,  a  couple  of  shirts,^ 
and  as  he  said  he  should  be  glad  to  go  to  the  United 
States,  but  if  he  did  he  could  not  go  to  work  as  for- 
merly, we  gave  him  a  conditional  obligation  that  if  he 
ever  did  come  to  the  United  States  and  called  on  us 
we  would  each  pay  him  one  hundred  dollars,  and  we  do 
not  doubt  that  other  visitors  to  these  islands  will  also 
subscribe,  by  which  means  perhaps  he  may  have  some- 
thing that  may  be  serviceable  to  him,  and  we  think 
him  worthy  of  it.  We  also  sent  by  Davis  some  liquors, 
etc.,  to  John  Young,  at  Ow-hy-hee  (Hawaii),  whom 
we  also  esteemed  highly.  In  the  evening,  ^h\  Davis, 
Stewart,  Homes  and  Hamilton  left  us  and  we  got 
under  way,  steering  at  about  SW.  At  2  o'clock  we 
hauled  up  XW  by  W^/^W;  light  wind  from  the  west- 
ward the  latter  part  of  the  night. 

KAUAI 

"1798  -^t  2  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  the  27th  of  Au- 

gust we  made  the  Island  of  Attoi  (Kauai)  ;  ran  in  f(ir 
the  northeast  part  of  the  island.     At  dark  it  was  aljout 
four  leagues  distant. 
Aug.  29th  'pjjg  canoes  came  off  to  us  from  the  XE  part  of  the 

island  bringing  potatoes,  plantains,  mats,  spears,  etc. 
The  first  canoe  that  came  alongside,  I,  without  expect- 
ing to  be  understood,  said  "who  are  you  ?"  "I  am 
General  Washington,"  says  the  Indian,  which  sur- 
prised me.  On  investigation  I  found  that  he  Avas  an 
Indian  that  had  been  to  the  northwest  coast  of  America 
with  ('apt.  Kendricks.  We  here  hooked  a  shark  which 
they  tried  to  get  into  their  boat;  they  jumped  into  the 
water  although  there  were  sharks  around,  which  they 
did  not  appear  to  have  any  fear  of.  Our  crew  got 
taken  in  se^'eral  times  by  the  Indians  with  half  fin- 
ished mats:  they  being  rolled  up,  they  supposed  them 
of  the  same  size  as  we  had  found  them  to  the  Wind- 
ward Islands.     As  soon  as  they  sold,  the  Indians  pad- 


21 

died  off.  Here  I  bought  a  pretty  boy  of  about  nine 
years  of  age  from  his  father,  for  some  trifling  consid- 
eration, bnt  when  the  father  came  to  leave  him  he 
felt  so  bad  that  I  would  bring  no  boy  away  who  came 
unwillingly.  I  therefore  insisted  on  his  father  taking 
him  back,  which  he  washed  not  to  do  but  was  rather 
indifferent  about  it.  We  stopped  at  this  island  hoping 
to  get  some  yams,  considering  them  the  only  vegetal  »lo 
that  would  keep  during  our  passage  and  which  was 
not  so  plenty  to  ^vindward.  We  were  able  to  get  but 
few  here.  Toward  night  we  squared  away  for  Oneho 
(!N^iihau)  and  lay  becalmed  through  the  night  under 
the  lee  of  Attoi  (Kauai). 

We  lay  becalmed  through  the  day,  still  under  the  --ius-^-^gilt 
lee  of  the  island  (Kauai).  This  is  a  very  fine  island 
and  the  only  one  in  this  group  that  is  not  sulijcet  to 
the  king  of  Ow-hy-hee  (Hawaii).  I  am  informed  that 
there  are  aqueducts  here  for  the  purpose  of  watering 
their  lands;  that  one  is  three  or  four  miles  in  length, 
running  around  the  mountain  to  water  the  land  below, 
that  is  built  up  of  stone  a  considerable  height,  and 
that  there  is  a  small  basin  that  a  vessel  from  sea  can 
go  into  and  they  ran  a  dam  across  of  a  sufficient 
height,  after  which  the  aqueduct  will  give  a  sufficient 
supply  to  carry  her  up  where  they  wish  and  the  sani(> 
Avhen  they  launch  her;  answering  every  purpose  of  a 
dry  dock.  There  are  here  three  white  men  and  two 
Portuguese ;  the  latter  they  call  bl^ck  men  here.  They 
are  building  a  vessel  for  the  king,  who  is  under  strong 
apprehensions  from  the  king  of  Ow-hy-hee  (Hawaii). 
The  canoe  that  l)oarde(l  us  with  (Jeneral  WashiiiiitdU 
on  board  came  over  wiih  ns  to  Oiielio  (Xiihau).  where 
we  now  are. 

Miir.vr 

We  arrived  this  dav,  August  .".Oth,  and  «»ue  of  <..ur  -^"-j  f"^ 
Indians  went  on  sh<n-e  to  forwanl  the  getting  ot  some 
yams,  which  we  t'olllid  were  sesiree.  I  lieliexc  ;i  iiioiilli 
later  we  should  have  found  them  pleniy.  \\i  li;i\e  noi 
anchored  and  shall  not,  as  we  shall  scpiare  away  for 
Canton   in   the  eveninu'.      We   fiinl    tlie   ti'a<le   -mall    at 


22 

this  island,  but  generally  a  good  island  for  yams.  The 
southern  ])art  of  the  island  looks  poor  l)nr  tho  rest 
appears  pretty   well. 

<;f..\p:kal  oksckiptiox  of  iiawatiax  islands 

T  have  given  you  a  pretty  general  account  of  our 
])roreedings  among  these  islands,  taken  from  my  more 
]iai-rieular  journal,  in  which  there  is  necessarily  much 
trush,  in  leaving  out  which  I  have  also  left  out  some 
remarks  that  ought  to  be  made.  I  shall  now  give  you 
these  remarks  with  some  general  ideas  of  the  islands, 
ill  doing  which  you  will  excuse  it  if  1  should  make 
some  repetition,  for  I  am  not  very  studious  to  avoid 
errors  where  none  but  my  brother  and  myself  are  to 
]»('rnse  it.  I  shall  therefore  just  cast  my  eye  over  it 
and  make  such  additions  to  my  letter  as  I  may  think 
necessary.  These  islands  are  eleven  in  niuuber:  Ow- 
hyhee  (Hawaii),  Mowee  (Maui).  Tahourai  (Kahoola- 
we),  Ranai  (Lanai),  Morotoi  (^folokai),  Whahoo 
(Oahu),  Attoi  (Kauai),  Xeeheho  (Lehua).  Oncho 
(Xiihau),  Morotinee  (Molokini),  and  Tahura  (Kaula). 
They  are  in  from  18°  to  22°  north  latitude  aiul 
15'>°  to  163°  west  longitude.  Owhyhee  (Hawaii), 
are  the  principal  islands  for  a  ship  to  get  supplies  at; 
sometimes  one  is  best  and  sometimes  the  other,  ac- 
cording as  they  may  have  been  visited.  There  is  no 
danger  of  a  deficiency  but  in  hogs ;  it  is  therefore  the 
safest  to  touch  at  Owyhee  (Hawaii)  and  run  down  the 
islands.  The  island  of  Owhyhee  (Hawaii)  is  about 
twel\-c  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  at  the 
summit  of  the  mountains  of  ^[ona  Roa  (Mauna  Loa) 
and  Mona  Koah  (Mauna  Kea),  wdiich  forms  plains  at 
different  heights,  wdiich  would  give  all  the  advantages 
of  different  climates,  from  the  growing  of  wheat  down 
to  the  banana,  or  apples  and  peaches  down  to  pine-ap- 
ples. It  is  said  there  is  frequent  snow  on  the  moun- 
tains and  it  is  calculated  that  the  region  of  perpetual, 
snow   in   this   latitude   is  but  between  three   and   four 


23 

thousand  feet  liigiier.  It  is  therefore  probabh^  that 
in  the  winter  months  there  is  sometimes  snow  (.11  tliese 
mountains,  as  the  calculation  also  is  that  it  descends 
2,624  feet  lower  in  winter  than  in  summer  in  this 
latitude.  This  island  is  seen  at  sea  forty  leagues ;  you 
may  see  it  in  the  morning  and  without  a  smart  breeze 
you  would  not  be  in  with  it  at  night.  It  is  triangidai- 
and  each  side  about  ninety  miles  in  extent.  Although 
the  island  generally  is  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation, 
there  is  considerable  waste  land,  most  of  which  is  be- 
cause it  is  not  wanted.  In  tlie  district  of  Ivoarah 
(Kohala)  where  we  lay  with  the  ship,  one  of  the 
points  which  formed  the  bay  had  its  soil  eom])letely  de- 
stroyed by  a  volcanic  eruption,  whicli  broke  out  on  the 
top  of  a  mountain  above,  and  the  lava  ran  do^vn  its 
side  into  the  sea;  it  streaked  down  in  ridges,  com- 
pletely burning  up  all  the  soil.  Tochai  Bay  (Ivawai- 
ahae  Bay),  where  we  were  is  a  good  harbor,  but  Kara- 
hekoa  (Kealakekua)  is  the  principal  harbor  and  the 
one  more  usually  visited.  It  is  the  present  residence 
of  the  king  (Kamehameha)  and  will  long  be  remem- 
bered as  the  death  place  of  the  vahuible  navigator, 
Capt.  James  Cook.  The  king  had  a  navy  yard  where 
we  lay  and  a  schooner  of  about  sixty  tons  on  tlic 
stocks.  She  is  building  inider  cover  of  a  thatch 
building  and  the  supei'iutendence  of  ^Ir.  John  Young. 
She  has  l)een  on  the  stocks  eighteen  nnrnths.  and  ]n-ob- 
ably  a  year  more  will  be  gone  before  she  will  be 
launched.  There  were  also  a  number  of  large  double 
war  canoes  building  under  thatched  houses,  said  to  be 
for  the  invasion  of  Attoi  (Kauai),  which  had  been  sev- 
eral years  since  they  were  begn)i ;  tlie  largest  are  sev- 
enty feet  in  length,  six  feet  in  d('])th  and  caidi  caiKM^ 
about  two  feet  wide,  lashed  together  about  hvc  fee* 
a])art  by  pieces  of  tindier  rising  in  the  middle  on 
which  is  a  platform  for  the  warriors.  Those  wh-i 
])addle  are  in  the  can<K'S.  The  sides  of  the  canoes 
tumble  in  like  a  ship  of  war,  which  make  them  inor(> 
safe  as  to   takinsr  in   water.      Their   single  canoes  are 


24 

various  sizes,  about  one-third  as  wide  as  they  are  deep, 
and  even  their  outriggers  are  tender-sided.  The  Irish- 
man (Martin)  who  visited  ns  on  onr  arrival  came  near 
being  drowned ;  going  on  shore  he  overset  twice  in  trying 
to  let  US  know  how  well  he  felt ;  he  would  not  be  still, 
he  tried  to  hoorah  and  over  he  went.  We  sent  our 
boat  and  picked  him  up.  He  said  they  w^ere  the  worst 
l)oats  he  was  ever  in:  a  man  could  not  shift  his  chew 
of  tobacco.  I  think  they  are  nothing  like  as  easily 
overset  as  the  Xorth  American  bark  canoes,  which  I 
have  been  pretty  w^ell  used  to  and  not  afraid  to  go  in 
at  almost  any  time.  These  canoes  will,  I  think,  out- 
])addle  them  against  the  wind,  but  in  a  perfect  calm 
L  do  not  know  that  they  w'ould,  although  they  say  they 
can  paddle  nine  knots,  which  is  faster  than  I  ever  saw 
a  bark  canoe  paddled.  These  canoes  are  dug  out  from 
logs,  or  rather  partly  burned  and  partly  dug  out;  they 
are  generally  in  two  pieces;  some  are  in  several;  the 
workmanship  is  good  and  they  are  not  made  in  a 
hurry.  The  king  Ivamehameha  (k)  )  now  has  his 
blacksmiths  and  his  carpenters;  there  was  a  black- 
smith's forge  at  the  navy  yard.  The  man(  ) 
Avho  killed  Capt.  Cook  was  alongside  of  us.  He  is 
not  blamed  by  the  natives,  and  I  believe  ought  not  to 
be,  but  the  circumstance  has  been  so  much  regi*etted 
among  themselves,  as  well  as  on  board  every  vessel  that 
ever  stops  there,  that  he  really  feels  not  as  though  he 
had  done  wrong  but  a  regret  at  having  done  it;  he 
never  visits  on  board,  but  goes  alongside  with  what 
he  may  have  to  sell,  and  on  shore  again  as  soon  a? 
it  is  disposed  of.  The  disposition  which  made  Capt. 
Cook  a  great  man  was  what  cost  him  his  life;  a  per- 
severance bordering  on  rashness  and  a  s])rig  of  national 
pride  which  increases  to  its  full  size  on  board  of  every 
armed  ship  of  Great  Britain.  Owhyhee  (Hawaii) 
was  calculated  to  contain  one  hundred  and  fifty  thou- 
sand inhabitants  Avhen  visited  by  Capt  Cook;  at  this 
tiuie  I  do  not  Ixdieve  it  contains  over  a.  hundred  thou- 
sand :  it  probably  has  been  reduced  considerably  by  the 


25 

late  wars.  Mowee  (Maui),  the  next  in  size  to  Owhy- 
liee(  Hawaii),  is  said  to  be  a  very  fine  island;  it  ap- 
peared very  pleasant  but  we  did  not  land  on  it;  is 
about  one-third  less  than  Owhyhee  (Hawaii).  Wahoo 
(Oahu)  rather  a  less  island,  but  I  think  the  pleasant- 
est  island  of  the  whole;  the  harbor  (Honolulu  harbor) 
is  said  to  be  the  safest  among  the  group.  Attoi  (Kauai) 
is  also  a  delightful  island  and  said  to  be  full  the  equal 
in  size  of  all  others ;  in  agriculaure  it  is  said  to  be  the 
first. 

JVATIVES 

The  natives  of  these  islands  are  an  active,  well-made 
people,  color  of  a  dark  olive,  varying  two  or  three 
shades  lighter.  Most  of  the  men,  particularly  the 
chiefs,  rather  disfigure  themselves  by  knocking  out 
two  or  three  upper  fore  teeth.  Their  dress  is  the 
nierro  (malo),  which  is  a  narrow  piece  of  cloth  about  six 
inches  Mdde,  carried  around  the  waist  and  in  a  peculiar 
manner  between  their  legs,  then  tucked  through  in 
front,  the  end  hanging  loosely  down;  being  no  more 
than  decency  would  demand  in  any  country  where  there 
would  be  any  pretensions  to  it.  The  dress  of  the  women 
evidenced  a  superiority  more  necessary  and  more  com- 
mon to  them  in  the  delicacy  of  their  dress.  They  wore 
a  sort  of  petticoat  made  from  the  cloth  of  the  country, 
which  descended  below  their  knees,  and  they  some- 
times wore  a  piece  of  cloth  as  a  mantle  over  their 
shoulders;  they  also  wore  ornaments  around  their  neck 
and  on  their  heads,  and  would  have  really  looked  well 
but  for  one  very  forbidding  custom  of  turning  the 
hair  up  on  the  forehead  and  taking  the  color  out  with 
lime,  so  that  there  was  a  streak  perfectly  white  on 
their  forehead  when  the  rest  of  the  hair  was  very 
black.  They  are  very  pleasing  in  their  manners  and 
evidently,  particularly  those  that  are  young  and  hand- 
some, have  the  same  power  over  the  men  that  they 
have  in  countries  more  civilized.  T  have  l>ef()i-c  re- 
marked that  the  young  wouien  never  work  in  tlii^  HcltK 
luit  the  old  ones  sometimes  do.     The  foreigners,  when 


26 

no  vessels  are  here,  more  iicnerally  dress  like  the 
natives.     There  was  an   Italian   (  )  eaine 

on  board  of  ns,  and  being  niueh  tattooed,  I  shonld  not 
have  noticed  but  he  was  an  Indian,  iniless  told  tu  the 
contrary.  I  noticed  one  Indian  who  always  cats  with 
the  women,  contrary  to  the  uniform  custom.  ^Ir. 
Young  told  me  there  were  some  instances,  but  they  were 
few  and  that  such  men  were  completely  incorporated 
into  the  society  of  the  females,  and  Avere,  no  more  than 
they,  allowed  to  go  into  the  houses  of  the  men.  There 
was  one  thing  very  unpleasant  to  my  feelings,  who  yo\i 
know,  as  my  mother  was  a  woman,  having  the  highest 
esteem  and  respect  for  the  female  character,  which  Avas 
to  see  them  all,  pleasant,  cheerful  women,  go  stooping 
about  decks  merely  because  there  happened  to  be  a 
chief  on  deck.  They  have  one  very  fascinating  quality 
in  the  females,  Avhich  is  neatness ;  they  certainly  are 
the  most  cleanly  people  that  I  have  seen ;  they  bathe 
a  number  of  times  every  day,  they  do  nothing  scarcely 
without  bathing  after  it;  they  bathe  immediately  after 
every  repast.  As  far  as  we  can  judge  from  appearances 
they  are  a  very  happy  people;  they  appear  to  be  child- 
ren in  their  amusements  and  in  everything  but  their 
size.  There  was  a  chief  with  his  wife  that  slept  on  our 
cabin  floor  one  night  and  they  laughed  and  giggled 
through  the  whole  of  it.  They  sing  and  dance  a  great 
deal,  their  songs  are  altogether  patriotic,  something  in 
favor  of  their  king  and  their  ])rincipal  chiefs. 

I  shall  not  attempt  to  argue  the  point  whether  a 
more  civilized  state  of  society  is  more  happy  or  not. 
If  they  have  more  virtues,  do  they  not  also  have  more 
vices  ?  If  a  child  appears  lively  and  happy,  we  reason- 
ably conclude  he  is  so.  Capt.  Vancouver  was  very 
anxious  to  Christianize  these  people,  but  that  can 
never  be  done  until  they  are  more  civilized.  The  king 
Amma-amma-haii  (Kamehameha)  told  Capt.  Van- 
couver that  he  would  go  with  him  on  to  the  high  moun- 
tain Mona  Eoah  (Manna  Loa)  and  they  would  both 
jump  off  together,  each  calling  on  their  separate  gods 


27 

for  protc'ctiou,  aud  if  Capt.  Vancouver's  god  saved  liiiii. 
but  himself  was  not  saved  by  bis  god,  tben  liis  pcct- 
ple  sboidd  believe  as  Capt.  Vancouver  did.  ('apt.  \'au- 
couver  bad  management  enougb  to  get  all  tbe  isbuicls 
ceded  to  tbe  king  of  England;  tbis  will  be  a  sufficient 
excuse  to  tbe  world-monopolizing  disposition  of  tbat 
go\ernment  to  take  possession  whenever  they  think  it 
for  their  interest  to  do  so.  The  king  (Kameha- 
meba  (k)  )  of  Owbyhee  (Hawaii)  always  enquires 
when  a  vessel  ctmies  in  how  George  is.  Although  tbe 
former  is  tbe  sujierior  of  the  latter,  tbat  is,  he  is  by 
far  tbe  greatest  uian  among  bis  people,  he  only  a})peai-s 
to  be  his  equal  in  fci'lings  towards  his ;  he  has  an  ex- 
alted opinion  of  the  English  from  tbe  circumstance  tbat 
their  ships,  tbat  have  stopped  there,  have  been  tbe 
king's  ships,  and  in  lieu  of  bartering  as  our  sbi])s  <1(», 
they  d<»  all  by  presents  through  the  king,  wbicb  is  (bme 
(»n  a  very  liberal  scale.  The  king  (Kauu'hanieha  (k)  ), 
when  he  made  his  visit  to  us,  brought  bis  own  fare, 
altlumgb  he  brougbt  a  flew  cook   (  ) 

with  him;  what  be  brougbt,  however,  Avas  such  as  could 
not  be  cooked  in  their  way  on  board;  be  brougbt  (b)gs 
and  pigs  ready  cooked.  Their  dogs  are  a  suuill  breeil 
and  are  fed  with  their  hogs  on  vegetables,  and  are 
never  a  com]>auioual)le  animal  with  tbem.  Tbeir 
Havor  is  much  like  a  ])ig;  I  tried  to  eat  a  ])ie('e,  as 
they  appeared  so  gooil,  but  after  rolling  it  i-ound  two 
or  three  times,  was  as  glad  to  get  i-id  of  it  as  lubau 
Allen  was  of  tbe  olive:  'AVith  your  leave,  .Madam," 
said  be.  "I  will  ])ut  tbis  d — d  tiling  back  again." 
Tlieii-  mo(b's  ot"  barbecuing  their  dogs  and  ])igs  are: 
tliey  ai-e  neatly  dressed,  their  hair  being  singed  oil",  a 
hole  is  iheu  dug  in  tbe  ground,  some  heated  stones  laid 
at  tbe  bottom  vovei'ed  witb  plantain  leaves,  tbe  inside 
of  I  be  pig  stuflFe<l  witb  lieated  stones  and  soum'  small 
beated  ones  into  llie  legs,  tben  laid  into  llie  liolc  aii<l 
carefniiy  eovei'cd  witb  |ilantaiii  leaves  and  lieale<l 
stones.  So  well  lai<l  tbal  not  a  paiticle  of  carlli  can 
get    to   tbe    pigs;    ii    i^   ijicii   coxcreil    up    until    it    is    well 


28 

cooked  :  the  skin  is  not  crisped,  bnt  otherwise  it  could 
not  1)('  better  cooked.  The  small  tish  are  eaten  raw.  I 
have  seen  them  eaten  immediately  from  the  hook,  bnt 
thev  Mere  of  the  length  of  my  tinger. 

The  king  bronght  his  ])voy  or  puoy  (poij  and 
some  wooden  ntensils  of  very  neat  workmanship ;  some 
dishes  to  hold  three  gallons,  made  of  wood  as  hand- 
some as  mahogany,  round  as  if  turned  in  a  lathe,  as 
Avell  polished,  and  the  top  litted  as  well  as  if  done  by 
our  country  cabinet  makers.  1'he  puoy  (poi)  is  made 
from  the  yarrow  (Taro),  which  is  roasted  and  mashed 
by  mixing  with  water,  is  made  into  a  pudding  and  by 
fermentation  becomes  a  little  sour,  in  which  state  they 
are  very  fond  of  it ;  they  dip  their  fingers  and  eat  it 
as  boys  do  molasses.  The  yarrow  (taro)  is  much  like 
the  yam  in  appearance  and  flavor;  grows  much  larger, 
sometimes  weighing  half  a  dozen  pounds.  It  gTOWs 
in  low  grounds  and  fre^inently  where  it  is  covered  with 
water,  which  in  turn  is  covered  with  its  leaves;  and 
when  roasted,  is  as  g(X>d,  in  my  opinion,  a  substitute  foi- 
])read  as  the  bread  fruit;  it  is  as  great  an  absorbent  and 
is  as  palatable.  There  are  a  few  sheep  on  Owhyhee 
(Hawaii)  and  some  poultry  at  this  time  of  but  little 
im])ortance.  There  is  also  a  cow ;  not  long  ago  this 
cow  had  a  calf,  and  it  being  what  the  natives  had  never 
seen  before,  they  were  so  much  delighted  with  it  that 
they  set  off  with  it  seventy  or  eighty  miles  to  sho-w  it  to 
tlie  king,  and  it  die<l  before  tluy  could  get  it  back 
again. 

As  I  have  agreed  to  come  out  again  for  the  pur- 
])ose  of  takijig  the  crcAv  oif  ^Massafuera  I  have  ]iromised 
the  king  I  would  bring  him  a  breed  of  horses.  Their 
fish  ponds  are  replenished  with  the  young  fry  at  a 
season  of  the  year  when  the  fish  strike  in  schools. 
Among  their  fish  they  have  a  crawfish,  different  but 
little  from  lobsters.  The  pearl  oyster  is  flavored  much 
like  the  oysters  of  our  own  country,  and  about  as  good 
in    tlavdi-   as  those  I  have   seen  growing  on   the   man- 


29 


grove   tree   iu   the  West   Indies.      The   pearl   is   found 
iuside  of  the  oyster  itself. 

The  king  (Kamehaineha  (k)  )  from  his  frequent 
visits  to  the  foreigners  was  fond  of  spirits,  but  I  never 
saw  him  drink  too  much,  and  there  were  very  few  of 
them  who  would.  They  are  naturally  averse  to  drink- 
ing spirituous  liquors,  and  there  was  scarcely  any  thing 
that  we  eat  or  drink  on  board  that  they  were  fond  of. 
Bread  and  salt  llsh  they  liked  very  well.  The  tirst 
Indian  who  visited  us  evidenced  that  he  had  been  on 
board  of  some  foreign  vessel,  for  seeing  my  globe  on 
the  after  locker,  he  went  to  it  and  asked  where  (.)\vhy- 
hee  (Hawaii)  was.  On  frequent  explanations  to  tlie 
king  and  others,  trying  to  persuade  them  the  wdrld 
was  so  made,  they  could  not  believe  a  word  of  it ; 
they  said,  putting  a  finger  under  the  globe,  if  they 
were  there  they  should  drop  off. 

They  being  so  expert  swimmers,  we  freqiicuily 
would  heave  a  nail  overboard,  when  they  tlivc  mid 
scarce  ever  fail  getting  it,  although  they  would  -(uuc- 
times  have  to  go  several  fathoms.  The  girls  dove  as 
well  as  the  boys.  In  landing  in  a  heavy  surf  thev 
manage  exactly  as  I  have  seen  the  negroes  at  'i'urks 
Island,  in  the  West  Indies.  The  third  roller,  or  sea, 
is  the  heaviest;  they  would  go  in  on  the  top  of  it  witli 
a  quick  velocity,  which  would  carry  them  well  up  tiie 
beach.  They  would  land  with  the  utmost  ease  where 
yon  ©r  I  would  have  drowned.  They  sometiuies  i!!:d-:e 
use  of  surf -boards.  The  surf-board  is  about  their  own 
length  and  floats  them  lighter.  A  woman  came  oft'  to 
swim  all  around  us  at  Wahoo  (Oahu),  when  we  wei-e 
two  miles  otf;  she  probably  was  in  the  water  four  or 
iive  hours.  Theft  has  been  dwelt  on  by  vessels  that 
have  stopped  here,  I  thiidv  rather  uncharitably:  suf- 
ficient allowance  has  not  l)een  made,  T  think.  i'<>v  the 
great  indticement;  they  value  a  nail  as  much  as  we  do 
a  guinea,  and  the  same  time  tluy  see  we  value  them 
lightly,  when  wo  are  willing  to  heave  them  oveib<.;i rd 
merelv   to  see  them   dive   for   tJieiii :    and    aiiionii    -iich 


30 

a  crowd  as  is  always  around  the  ship  would  it  iiut  be 
surprisiiig-  if  there  were  not  thieves  'i  Should  we  say 
the  natives  of  these  islands  are  the  greatest  thieves 
in  rlu-  world,  when  on  shore  private  property  is  re- 
speet('<l  and  theft  punished  hy  a  eontiscation  of  rlieii* 
lands  among-  the  chiefs,  and  death  among  the  vassals^ 
This,  Davis,  told  me  was  tlie  case,  and  I  believe  it. 
The  wants  of  these  islanders  aj)pear  to  be  just  enough 
to  employ  the  body  and  mind,  and  we  cannot  say  but 
they  are  as  happy  as  any  people  on  earth;  if  counte- 
nances speak  true  they  are,  for  they  certainly  are  the 
most  cheerful.  J  am  aware  that  our  appearance  among 
them  is  very  animating,  and  they  of  course  would  ap- 
pear so,  but  at  the  same  time  that  is  perhaps  entirely 
balanced  in  our  natural  prejudices  against  a  (lark-col- 
ored people,  for  Avhat  on  earth  is  so  beautiful  as  a 
])leasing  countenanced  female  of  a  good  fair  complex- 
ion. A\'hile  I  was  with  them  I  was  foolish  enough  to 
have  a  double  canoe  tattoed  on  one  of  my  legs ;  the 
operation  was  but  little  painful,  but  it  swelled  consid- 
erably, and  troubled  me  in  walking  for  several  days. 
The  gourds  which  grow  here  being  so  useful  for  bottles 
and  for  dipjiers  should  not  have  been  forgotten;  they 
grow  to  a  very  large  size,  and  by  bandages  they  give 
them  any  shape  they  please.  There  are  some  few 
oranges  at  Owhyhee  (Hawaii),  introduced  here,  but  no 
limes  or  tamarinds.  The  bread-fruit  is  about  the  size 
of  a  shaddock,  knobbed  like  a  ])ineapple,  the  points  of 
which  are  dark;  when  prepared  are  dry,  not  unlike  an 
Irish  roast  potato,  but  more  palatable;  T  think  they 
have  been  overrated.  AVe  have  a  large  quantity  of  fish 
lines  of  different  sizes,  which  we  calculate  to  put  our 
rigging  in  good  order  with,  in  pointing  and  gaffing; 
they  are  as  well  spun  and  laid  up  as  any  I  ever  saw, 
and  are  strong;  they  spin  and  lay  them  up  very  ex- 
pertly on  their  knees.  The  method  of  proving  whether 
pearls  are  good  is  in  vinegar,  which  dissolves  them  in 
about  ten  days.  Take  a  few  of  the  small  ones  from  a 
parcel  which  are  of  very  little  value.     However,  there 


31 


is  no  daujicr  iii  Ix'iiiii-  tlcceivi'd  l>_v  tliciii  ar  the  isJaiKls. 
These  people  appear  so  liapi>y  that  1  retieot  niueli  on 
the  suhjeet ;  although  retined  societies  may  be  the  hap- 
piest, the  refinement  must  not  he  carried  to  great 
Inxuriousness.  ^tav  not  the  Sandwich  Islanders  be 
less  short  of  necessary  refinement  than  the  Italians, 
who  pay  little  attention  to  a  virtuous  retincnient,  are 
beyond  it  (  These  Islanders  are  neat  in  their  persons, 
respect  their  legislators  and  their  laws,  are  cheerful  and 
obliging  to  each  other.  Those  are  refinements.  As 
nothing  is  great  or  small  but  by  comparison,  com]iare 
them  with  the  Patagonians,  who  are  far  ahead  ttf  the 
miserable  Tierra  del  Fnegans,  near  Cape  Horn,  who 
are  very  filthy  and  in  no  way  comfortable.  Between 
them  and  the  Italian  perhaps  these  lslan<lers  are  the 
medium,  and  I  do  not  believe  in  extremes. 

We  left  the  Sandwich  Islands  on  August  -M.  1798. 


INDEX. 


Amai-amai-ah    (see    Kamehameha ). 
Amma-amma-hah    (see    Kamehame- 
ha). 
Attoi  (see  Kauai) 
Aqueducts,  21. 


Cabbages,  19. 

Cattle,  28. 

Cook,  Captain  .James,  14,   IT,  24. 

Cooking,  method  of,  27. 

Customs  of  Hawaiians  in  1798,  14. 


Davis,  Isaac,  7,  8,  10,    11,1:^,14.18, 

19.  20.  30. 
Diamond  Head,  18. 
Diamond  Hill  (see  Diamond  Head). 


England,  ceding  of  Islands  to,  2'i 


Fish  ponds,  artificial,  19. 
Fowchai  Bay  (see  Kawaihae  Bay). 


Gourds,  30. 

Greene,  Capt.  Daniel.  1,  2,  4,  7,  11, 

12,  16,  18. 

H 

Hamakua,    3. 

Hamilton,  an  American  resident, 
19,  20. 

Hawaii,  3.  10,  22,  24,  2-5,  27,  28. 

Hawaiian  Islands,  general  descrip- 
tion,  22. 

Heiau  14. 

Hilo,  3. 

Homes,    an    American    resident,    7, 

13,  14.  20. 
Honolulu,  18,  19,  2.5. 

I 


Jew  cook,  a  resident,  8,  21 


K 


Kaahumanu   (w),  8. 

Kahoolawe,  22. 

Kailua,  Oahu,  7. 

Kalakua  (w),  8. 

Kameeiamoku  (k),  9,  10. 

Kamehameha  (k),  5,  7,  9.  lii,  11    16 
23,  24,  26,  27,  28. 

Karahekoa  (see  Kealakekua  Bay). 

Karah-choora  Bay  (see  Kealakekua 

Bay). 
Kauai,  16,  20,  21,  22,  23,  25. 
Kaula,  22. 

Kawaihae  Bay,  4,  5,  6,  23. 
Kealakekua  Bay,  13,  23. 
Keliimaikai  (k),  5,  6,  7,  9,  13,  15. 
Kendricks,  Capt.,  9,  20. 
Keopuolani   (w),  8. 
Kiilaweau   (w),  7. 
Ko-ah-ra  (see  Kohala). 
Kohala,  5,  6,  23. 


Lanai,  22. 
Lehue,  22. 
Lime  on  hair,  25. 
Limes,  30. 


M 


Idols,  14. 

Italian,  a  resident,  26. 


Makahiki,  15. 

.Malo,   25. 

^larhahiti   (see  makahiki). 

Martin,  an  Irishman,  5,  6,  12,  23. 

-Maui,  16,  17,  22,  25. 

^Mauna  Kea  22. 

Mauna  Loa,  22,  26. 

Metcalf,  Capt.,  9,  10,  11. 

-Metcalf,  the  younger,  10. 

Molokai,  22. 

-Molokini.  22. 

Mona  Koah  (see  Mauna  Kea). 

Mona  Roa  (see  Mauna  Loa. 

Morotinee  (see  Molokini). 

Morotoi   (see  .Molokai). 

Mowhee  (see  ^laui). 

Muskmelons,  19. 


N 


Surf-board,  L'!i. 


Nahienaena  (w),  S,  9. 
Namokuelua   (w),  7. 
Natives,  description  of,  23. 
Xeehelo  (see  Lehua). 
Xiihau,  21,  22. 


Oahu,  9,  12,  16,  18,  19,  22,  23. 
Olowalu  massacre  11. 
Oneho  (see  Xiihau). 
Oranges,  30. 
Owyiiee  (see  Hawaii). 


Pearl  fisliery,  19,  28. 
Pearl  Harbor,  19. 
Poi,  28. 

Portuguese  on  Kauai,  21. 
Poultry,  28. 
Population,  24. 
Pumpkins,  19. 
Puna,  3. 


Ranai  (see  Lanai). 


Tahourai    (see   Kahoolawe).       , 
Tahura  (see  Kaula). 
Tamarinds,  30. 
Taro,  28. 

Tidi  Miti  (see  Keliimaikai). 
Tochai  Bay  (see  Kawaihae  Bay). 
Townsend,  Ebenezer,  1,  2. 
Townsend,  Ebenezer,  .)r.,  1,  2. 


Vancouver,  Capt.,  26,  27. 
Vegetables,  19. 
Vessels: 

"Fair  American."  9,  10. 

"Garland,"  13. 

"Neptune,"  1,  2. 

W 

Wahoo   (see  Oahu). 

Waikiki  Bluff,  18. 

Watermelons,  19. 

White  men  on  Kauai,  21. 

Whitreter  Bluff  (see  Waikiki  Bluff). 

Worhoo  (see  Oahu). 

Worth,  Capt.  Barzillai,  13. 


Salt  manufacturing,  19. 
Shackelsby,  a  resident,  5. 
Spaniards,  17. 

Stewart,   Capt.,    an    Englishman. 
13,  14,  19,  20. 


Young,  John,  an  Englishman,  5,  6, 
7,  10,  11,  13,  17,  20,  23,  26. 


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